Life is a series of beginnings and endings, and it is hard to believe I will be returning home in a couple of days. I leave behind months of trying to be useful, experiencing what the Palestinians face on a daily basis and receiving genuine friendships from people who are under seige.I have seen the results of the stress of the occupation, I have laughed with the children around me and have been inspired by the daily acts of generosity. I am grateful for having had this second opportunity to live among the Palestinans and see the beauty which exists among them. The land inspires thoughts of ancient peoples and yesterday I was invited to visit some newly discovered archeological finds from Byzantine times, not far from Hope School. Ironically it was the digging of the "wall" that led to the discovery of the storage caves and large, circular stones for crushing grapes. The "wall"continues to be built around Beit Jala and and with it beautiful sections of land are lost to their rightful owners. The news of the attack on the Gaza flotilla has dampened our spirits and one wonders how people even survive in Gaza. A friend whose grandmother lives in Gaza, tells me there is a great need for medicine, for building materials and school supplies. Often fruit and vegetables that are ready to be exported from Gaza are held up and spoil in the heat. Life is not easy here, but I have gained insight into the complexity of a conflict which has no easy answers. It is unfortunate the West has not been able to play a more successful role in bringing peace to this region. May peace be with you and your loved ones. Salaam, yvonne

Today Palestinian Christians are celebrating St. George's day. He is the beloved patron saint of Beit Jala and Bethlehem, and you can find his image in many places in this area. Christians as well as some Muslims go to the beautifully painted church of St. George in a small town nearby to pray and light candles. It is a joyful day during which special sweet, round, flat loaves of bread are sold. These freshly baked loaves, the size of a dinner plate,have been blessed by the priest and no one leaves the church without purchasing several of them to share with family.

The candles vary in size; from very thin ones to large ones 5 ft tall and many visitors come especially to light one in the hope that their prayers will be answered. It is interesting to observe Muslims revering St. George and to know that they revere Mary and other saints as well. The interior of the small church is decorated with paintings of St. George and the most important biblical figures. The colors are vibrant which creates a joyful atmosphere. Ouside of the church different wares are sold; from beautifully hand embroidered bags and shawls to cheap plastic toys.

As Salam and I walked back to Hope School we saw the sun go down behind the ancient terraced hills planted with olive trees. It was such a peaceful scene which came with the knowledge that this day officially brought the first day of summer.

In contrast to this joyful celebration are the weekly demonstrations agaist the continued building of the wall around Beit Jala and Al-Wallajeh, a small village not far from Hope School. Much land has been confiscated and more olive trees have been lost.

The wall is not only visually offensive but also controls the life of the Palestinians through the checkpoints. No one passes through without a permit from the Israelis, and many Palestinians have not been able to visit Jerusalem for more than a decade because they were not granted the necessary papers. Jerusalem is only 25 minutes by bus from here and a special place for Muslims and Christians.

The illegal settlements continue to be built on Palestinian lands and there seems to be no end to this conflict. Another summer has arrived with the realization that the conditions have not improved. Another summer of not being able to escape the bondage of the occupation.

Please keep the people of the Middles East in your prayers.

yvonne

EASTER WEEK IN ISTANBUL Spending Easter week in Istanbul with my sister was an experience beyond our expectations. In spite of having visited several middle-eastern cities over the past two years, I was taken by surprise at how different Istanbul is. It is a unque city straddling the Bosphorous Strait. An amazing mixture of east and west where you can find european style cafes lining the streets as well as an exotic spice bazaar and splendid mosques. In spite of the grandest mosques I have ever seen, e.g the Blue Mosque, it does not feel like a typical muslim city. Many people are dressed in a western style and you can feel a sense of openness to the world. The city was founded in the 7th century BC and was an important capital of the Byzantine Empire and later of the Ottoman Empire. One can find ancient restored mosaics, greek columns, and roman aqueducts. Comstantinople was the richest city in Christendom for almost a thousand years and its unique location between the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea contributed to its colorful history. The Hagia Sophia church is one of the greatest architectural wonders of the world and is more than 1400 years old. One is humbled by its enormous size and feeling of grandeur. Although most everyone would say that tulips originated in The Netherlands, this small bulb was cultivated in Turkey and main avenues are lined with brilliantly blooming tulips at this time of the year. The many parks are filled with families on Sundays and the views over the water are everchanging. Early in the morning one could see hundreds of tankers waiting in line in the Sea of Marmara to enter the Bosphorous to proceed to the Black Sea and the oil refineries. Istanbul is a city that has gone through many transformations and now clearly prides itself on its modernity while treasuring the richness of its past. The smells, colors,sounds, challenge your senses and my sister and I thoroughly enjoyed exploring this jewel of the Middle East. Hoping your Easter was one of new beginnings, warmest greetings, yvonne

Today is Mother's Day in Palestine and fortunately I was invited to teacher Hanah's home for a fabulous lunch. Three kinds of barbecued meat were accompanied by tabouleh salad, filled pasties, a fresh salad, another kind of flat dough topped with a meat mixture and various vegetables. It was a traditional palestinian meal. For dessert we had a Black Forest cake which just made a perfect ending to this afternoon. It was a privilege to spend the afternoon with this family. There were several grandchildren and another baby on the way. Palestinian families in general are very close, and thank God they have each other for support.

The situation here has not improved, in fact I believe it has worsened. The checkpoints are more restricted and the settlements are growing. It takes longer for palestinians to get anywhere because they are not allowed to use the Israeli roads. Consequently a trip to Jericho, which could be a drive of less than an hour now becomes a two hour journey over a treacherous road.

Bethlehem Bible College recently organized a challenging conference called; Christ at the Checkpoint. The speakers that I heard were excellent and the main focus was to stay the course and to resist the occupation, but in a non violent way. It is time for serious peace talks and as American Christians we need to support the peace process. A just peace is desperately needed and the palestinians have suffered enough. We need to stand up and be heard.

Life is quiet here and it was a joy to attend the service today at the Chritsmas Lutheran Church I am getting to know some of the local people in the church and feel welcomed. I plan to make this my home church while I am here.

During this Lent season I wish all of you new beginnings, and hope that this time of Lent is meaningful for you.

Peace be with you,

yvonne

After traveling through Palestine for 10 days with a small group, I have settled in at Hope School. It was a happy reunion with friends and I feel quite at home. The weather is not so terribly cold and the first signs of spring are apparent.

The school has made some changes and additions, and there are new students, but the daily routines have stayed the same.

We now have 5 boarders and I am getting to know them. One boy is a 7th grader and I am helping him with his English. He comes from Hebron, a city which has suffered greatly from the Israeli occupation and has almost died out. He is so appreciative of any attention and has stolen my heart. What suffering lies behind each of the boys' lives.

I had the unusual opportunity to visit with a refugee family and hear their story. Living in a refugee camp for 4 generations is a grave injustice. How can we ignore such tragic conditions? It is a question I grapple with on a daily basis. The beauty of the land belies the human tragedies of everyday life, and the human spirit is able to rise above the daily humiliations.

Salam,

yvonne

Yvonne is looking forward to returning to hope school in March.

Dear Family and Friends,

My incredible journey into the life of the Palestinians in the Bethlehem area and at Hope School has come to an end.It has been a life changing experIence and it is hard to believe I arrived five months ago during the height of the war in Gaza. I felt unsure of the conditions in the West Bank but found out that the West Bank and Gaza are two different worlds. My stay at Hope School has been made unforgettable by the warmth of the staff and the families of the school. I leave behind dear friends, in spite of some language barriers, and have experienced the frustrations and joys of their every day lives. I also leave behind the friendship of many students, especially Mohammed and Salem, the two boarders with whom I shared the evening meals and many special other times.
I return with a better understanding of the situation in Palestine and feel passionately about the injustice which exists.. The balance of power is so unequal that there is no equal playing field in this game. I have admired my friends for their determination to make the best of their situation. Their lives are so very difficult at times.
I leave behind the beauty of this landscape. I will miss my walks behind the school down into the valley with olive trees, local sheepherders, and ancient rock walls with a spring which has produced water since Roman times, The Bible stories become so real here, and from the very beginning I have felt a special affinity for this ancient place. I encourage you to come and see for yourself and experience this Holy Land. It is no more dangerous than the freeways in LA and you will be warmly received. Busloads of pilrgims drive by constantly and we have many visitors that come to Hope School to support us in our mission to educate boys and girls from poor families. The school survives from donations and we do not get financial aid from the government because we are a private school. It is not always easy to pay the bills and the staff at the end of the month. The director, Solomon Nour, is steadfast in his faith that by some divine intervention money will arrive in the mail to make it htrough another month.
Thanks to those who responded to my blog and it will be strange not to have this connection, but it will be oh so wonderful to see you personally again. It also will be strange to get into my own car and be able to go wherever I want without having to go through checkpoints. What a sense of freedom that will be!!
Your unfailing support of this mission has given me strength throughout these months and I am deeply grateful to all of you.
Peace be with you. Salam!
yvonne

I had the fortunate experience of having my sister Sonja (from Holland) visit me at Hope School. She stayed for 10 days and we travelled up north one week end and south the other to visit the Dead Sea. Both experiences were interesting and totally different. The north is green and mountainous, wheras the area around the Dead Sea is desert like but also with many mountains. The second Friday she was here I drove her to a small Moslem village close by the school and just by chance we were stopped in the village by a teacher from Hope School and were invited to come to a wedding which had just started. Of course we were not dressed for the occasion but were convinced by Ahmed that it did not matter. We expereinced an amazing celebration and were the only western women . All the women wore scarves and the younger ones are just beautiful. We were warmly welcomed by the parents of the bride and fed the traditional food of boiled meat served with rice and a sauce, which was accompanied by a can of Fanta. The women were at one place and the men at another, and only did the groom and bride dance together for a short while at the gathering place of the women. We never got to see the men except when everyone was walking on the road accompanying the bridal pair; she in the car (with a "just married" sign on the back), following the groom who was being carried on the shoulders of his friends. Swords were waved in the air and there was a constant siniging by men as well as women. The women made the trilling sound with their tongues, and the older women wore the beautifully embroidered traditional long dresses. The bride was really made up and dolled out in an incredible wedding gown, lots of make up!,and the groom wore a silver-like suit. He was a handsome young man and I was glad to see they were the same age. It happens a lot in the Middle East that older men marry very young women. Women danced for some time with the bridal pair and then the wedding sort of came to an end. Sonja and I could not believe our luck of being a part of this celebration and the recipients of such warm hospitality from our hosts. It was just one of those incredibly wonderful experiences one has while travelling. And since this was a Moslem occasion I will end by saying Salam to all of you. Inshalla! May God be with you. Yvonne

The Easter activities have ended and it was a wonderful time. I attended Palm Sunday in the Orthodox Church to specifically see the unique plm decoartions that were made. Usually children carry them and they contain fresh flowers.Orthodox Easter was celebrated one week after the Catholic Easter (as it is called here)and there were services every evening leading up to Easter. On the Saturday before Easter the Orthodox Patriarch from Jerusalem brought a flame from the Holy Sepulcher Church, the Holiest of Holy churches for Christians in the Middle East. He was accompanied by a parade during which all of Beit Jala came out in their finest clothes. When he reached the church he carried the light through the church several times and people could light their own candles, (which were sometimes decorated with artificial Easter eggs) or small lanterns which they had brought in order to carry the light home and share with neighbours. This is a beautiful tradition and people were quite excited about receiving the light. The Orthodox Church here is not large but elaborately decorated and has the largest congregation of all the churches. Usually there isn't a sermon but a lot of chanting and people come and go as children are allowed to wander around. I was invited to some friends' home on Orthodox Easter Sunday and it was unexpectedly low key. However, after dinner we visited three different families and this was a lot of fun. During the visit you can be served Turkish coffee, or a small glass of pina colada, a chocolate egg or freh fruit. Before you leave you are presented with a colored Easter egg, and all self respecting christian women make "mahmul", a very heavy date filled cookie, decorated in a special way. I don't find them very tasty but had the privelege of being able to help make them one evening. The festivites here in Beit Jala are quite unique and I decided to stay here rather than fight the crowds in Al-Quds, Jerusalem. The day ended as only a day in Palestine can end. As I was walking home in the dark I was stopped at the checkpoint, which is no more that 100 ft. from the school. There had been a shooting in Bethlehem and all car and pedestrain traffic was stopped. So I had to wait in the hope that it would not be hours. Fortunately after a short half an hour, I was let through, but it was a threatening kind of expereince.
Spring is beautiful and I will be going North to Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee with my sister tomorrow. She will be with me for 10 days and it will be nice to be able to understand and speak Dutch with her. Not knowing the language can be very isolating and stressful at times. I am now learning the past tense and it has not become any easier. I still prefer doing it this way though, than trying to connect with Americans from this area. I have learned much from my friends and treasure their friendship. Sending you my love, yvonne Salam.

Dear Friends,
My attempt to get a 3 month visa was a success! It was an expensive way, but I got to see Petra in Jordan. I flew to Amman, Jordan where a taxi awaited me and took me to Amman. The next morning I took a 6:30 a.m. bus to Petra, where upon arrival at 10 a.m.,I found my hotel and went into the park. It was warm and required a lot of walking. Petra is a historic site that dates back to the days of the caravans that came through here. The Nabateans settled here 2200 years ago and established a flourishing kingdom and many traces of their culture are still visible. The area is made of colorful sandstone in which they carved intricate decorations.You enter the park and walk some distance until you come into a narrow walk way surrounded by towering cliffs of the most fabulous colors. The road is just wide anough for one car and you can still see traces of the stones the Romans laid. Many of the early inhabitants lived in caves and buried their dead in tombs which were formed in the rocks by erosions over centuries. Up until the 1980's local Bedouin tribes populated the caves and were known for their crafts. The caves now are empty, but many Bedouins still sell their colorful crafts in the park.
I met a delightful poet from New York and we decided to go back to Petra the next morning at 6:30 to avoid the tourists and enjoy the coolness of the early morning. It was a lovely walk and she brought me up to date on what is new in the States. That afternoon I returned by bus to Amman, and caught a morning flight back to Tel Aviv.The immigration officer asked me how long I wanted to say and I immediately replied 3 months, which she gave with the admonition that I would have to leave when this one expired. What a relief!! If ever you go to the Middle East, Petra is well worth your time. I found out that 80% of the Jordanians are refugees from Palestine. When people realized I lived in Beit Jala,Palestine, I was treated with great warmth.
We are now in the midst of the Easter celebrations and because the Greek Orthodox Easter is celebrated 1 week after the Catholic one,there is much to see. Last night I went to a special foot washing service during which the right foot of 12 men were washed by the priest. It was most unusual and the mystery of it was accentuated by chanting and a lot of incense. Two hours is a little long when you don't understand what is being said, but you can get caught up in the ritual. And now from this Holy Land I wish all of you a blessed Easter. Have a wonderful time with your families, and keep praying for Peace.
Salaam, yvonne

This week was quite a special week with 800 origami cranes packed in two large boxes and sent from Greenville, Ca, to Hope School. The elementary students there started folding paper cranes two years ago and decided to send some to Hope School accompanied by cards and letters. This was quite an event in Greenville, a small town in the Sierras, north of Tahoe. Don Lee's wife, Reverend Mc Donald had a lot to do with this. WEll, when we unpacked the first box our prinicpal, Solomon Nour, just shook his head because the cranes were grouped in plastic bags on a string and you could only see lots of grocery bags with string coming out every direction. I had to pick up the second large box in the Post Office in Jerusalem and dragged the box into the #21 bus in Jerusalem to return to Beit Jala. Fortunately the driver let me put the box next to him because there was not any room in the small bus. I was so relieved. Anyway, after untangling and hanging 800 cranes we put a string of them in the chapel and the next morning I gave a "chapel talk" during which I explained the origins of origami and told the students that the cranes represented a wish for Hope and Peace for the students of Hope School. Furthermore each crane also was accompanied by a prayer. I was afraid the kids would find it silly because almost no one had even heard about origami. I told the story of Sadako, a young Japanese girl who survived the atomic bomb in Hiroshima, and folded over a 1000 cranes in the hope that she would be saved from dying of leukemia, brought on by the radiation of the atomic bomb. Sadly she died, but her story became famous by way of a book that had been written about her life. I was touched by not only the gesture of the Greenville students, but also by our students' eagerness to have a crane, and by the reaction of the adults.The cranes were quite the talk of the school and how wonderful that something like this can happen, thanks to a dedicated elementary teacher. What a lesson for all of us. One string has remained in the chapel to remind us that we are all conncted in magical ways and that support for each other can come from far away places. I personally have felt that support from my family and friends at home, but also have been supported here in many kind ways. My love goes out to all of you and know that I am deeply grateful to be here, even though life is diffcult around me. It is amazing how resilient the human spirit is. yvonne

This past Sunday I was invited to lunch at one of the teachers' homes and it was a traditional dinner of filled grape leaves and roast chicken. The leaves are filled with a mixture of hamburger and rice and it is very tasty. Soft drinke were served with the meal and after dinner as we sat around the gas stove to stay warm, we were served a home made choclate cake and wonderful coffee. Then later fruit was passed around. I was stuffed, but oh so grateful.
After visiting for a while I was invited to join my hosts to a birthday party of their granddaughter who turned 6. It was a delightful gathering of families with children. The children played in one of the bedrooms and the adults were in the living room. The Mom had been preparing food since 6 a.m. and there were delicious savories made with a kind of pizza dough on top of which was a mixture of hamburger with onions. Very traditional here. She had also baked a chocolate cake and there were all kinds of other sweets. A beautiful cake from the bakery graced the kitchen table and when the candles were lit the father also lit some sparklers and we all sang Happy Birthday in English and then in Arabic. Some decorations had been put up and it so reminded me of a birthday at home. The women spoke very little English, but the men did better. I have learned to just sit and absorb all that is going on. At the end we all went home with plastic containers filled with the most delectable leftovers. What a wonderful afternoon, and I felt fortunate to have been invited and was touched by the hospitality. People in Beit Jala all seem related in some way and I feel I have become a part of this wonderful web of friends. Beit Jala really is a lovely town and I now know my way around and even know some of the merchants. I had an interesting experience in the Post Office recently, where I went to pick up a package.
The area of the clerks is behind a heavy metal screen, sort of like the banks were in the 20th century. I had to sign for the pacakge and had brought the stamp from Hope School with me because the transaction was hand posted in a special ledger. It is a very small office and the postmaster was leisurely reading the paper as the only clerked helped me. When they new I was from Hope School I was treated most respectfully. Our director, Solomon Nour, knows everyone here! It is the most amazing experience. I never worry about my safety and have special taxi drivers that I can call on. I am in the throws of trying to figure out how I will extend my tourist visa. It will probably take a trip out of the country to accomplish a very tedious and unnecessary procedure,but that is the way life is here. I think of home often, but this is home now too. With love, yvonne

March 9, 2009

This past week end I was invited by some volunteers of Bethlehem Bible College to visit Akko, an ancient city just north of Haifa, on the Mediterranean. It is a remarkable city that goes back to the 19th century BC. It is mentioned in Egyptian texts and its port has been visited by ships from as far as Genoa, Pisa, Venice and Amalfi, and Marco Polo and St. Francis of Assisi were guests here. The city has been conquered by the Greeks, Romans, Crusaders, Turks, until in 1917 the British captured Palestine and with it Akko. The city has been destroyed and rebuitl many times and today you can visit the ramparts which jut into the sea, the underground Knight's Hall, the prison and the dining hall. Within the walls homes are still lived in and there is a busy market area. The weather was warm and sunny and being so close to the sea was a real treat. We spent many hours exploring this old city and I visited the Turkish Bath. A mutlimedia presentation in the old Turkish Bath house made it come alive and it became clear that this was the hub of sociall life . The baths were only for men where they were pampered, and business deals as well as social gossip were passed along here. There was also an area for women where they could bring their children, have weddings, and even give birth. The aniquity of this town is remarkable and it is considered to be one of the most beautiful historic sites in Israel. Upon returning home that evening (sitting in traffic, just like home!) I was invited to join the staff of Bethlehem Bible College, and the volunteers, to a traditional dinner in a restaurant called The Tent. It is a (sort of )copy of a Bedouin tent and you sit at long tables surrounded by traditional Bedouin wall hangings. It was very similar to what I had experienced in Egypt. The food was delicious and I was grateful to have been included. Alex and Bishira Awad, and their wives, are very gracious hosts.
After this wonderful day on the coast I spent two days in Jerusalem, due to the holiday in honor of Mohammed's birthday. It is warming up and you can see real signs of spring. I enjoyed just having the free time to walk around and savour the sounds and smells of the arabic section of the city. Thank you for your continued support and messages. Love, yvonne

Valetine's

Valentine's Day was fun. It passed without the enormous fanfare that we see, but the flower shop was busy and as a florist I was intrigued by the arrangements that were made and some of them were so beautiful. They looked like small flat baskets on which they arranged lovely roses and greenery. Of course I had to get some flowers too, and two cute Valentine teddy bears for Carlos and George, Laila's children.WEll, when all was totalled I did not have enough shekels to pay, but did have dollars which I had not been able to change yet. So, I decided to do like the Palestinians do, I asked if I could bring the rest of the money the next day, to which I was given the answer, "just as you like". The owner knows me and he graduated from Hope School, so the next day I was able to bring the rest of the money. I just laughed to myself because I could just see myself telling the clerks in our small, local grocery store, Holiday Market, that I would pay the rest of my bill the next day!! This is whay I love about this culture, once you are a friend, you are trusted.
I also decided to visit the Lutheran Church on Sunday and of course did not understand anything, but was warmly greeted. It was communion Sunday, and lo and behold we were all given a chunk of bread which you were supposed to hold in your hand until the goblet with wine came around. As I was contemplating having to drink out of the same goblet as everyone else, which really did not appeal to me, I accidentally dropped a crumb of bread. Within seconds a small child and a man quickly came over and picked up the dropped treasure. A rather embarrassing moment, but later I found out that the bread is considered to be holy and you can't leave it on the ground. It was a moment I won't forget, and I bravely drank out of the goblet, but found out later you may also dip the bread in the wine. It was another one of those wonderfully amazing experiences that challenge all of your senses and your comfort zone.
The Israeli elections did not go well for Palestine, lines have hardened and I feel disheartened by the results. Israel sees no need to back down at this point. The suffering of Gaza is beyond words and it was a cruel attack. Even if you think Israel has the right to defend itself, as I do, the death of 13 Iraelis does not warrant the killing of more than a thousand people and the wounding of several thousands and that does not take into consideration the destruction it caused and the lack of medical supplies. Please keep praying for the people of Israel and Palestine. I am glad the peace lamp at Sierra Pines still burns. Love, yvonne

The country side of Bethlehem and Beit Jala is slowly showing signs of Spring. The almond trees are in bloom and various wildflowers are showing up. It also is a bit warmer which is a welcome change. I never tire of the views of the hills surrounding us. Life at Hope School is a constant blur of activity and I have started teaching. It is quite a challenge, especially the boys who feel they need to run the class. I would like to tell you about one of the boys who lives here and who I have gotten to know very well. His names is Salam and he lives at home with his older brothers who work. His father was a christian but became a Muslim and married a Muslim woman. There was no room for a christian in their family, and Salam's Mother also abandoned him. He is 16 and the kindest person you would ever want to meet. He makes tea for me with fresh mint and it is aboslutely perfect. He is not the best of students but is a wonderful artist. He decorated the walls outside of the school with very colorful images and is not one of the louder boys we have here. We have dinner together in the evening with Mohammed, the other boy who lives here, in the kitchen downstairs and I quite miss them when they are gone on the week ends. Salam's story is not so unusual here. Many children live under very difficult circumstances and you just want God to touch them all. I have made very nice friends but you are aware of their circumstances, which for most are difficult. I attended an English speaking church yesterday in Jerusalem and met some nice people, but I realized I am becoming very comfortable in the palestinian culture and plan to attend church in this community too. Please keep the people of Gaza and the West Bank in your prayers and we hope that the Israeli elections will bring a much needed change. Love you, yvonne

Jan 25th update from Yvonne to family. Posting on her behalf because of technical difficulties on her end:

The first days of the excitement of the "new ness" has worn off and I am being confronted by the reality of real life here. I have heard many heartbreaking stories from children as well as adults. People have no hope left. They are tired of war and checkpoints, and restrictions. Here in the Bethlehem region people are not allowed to leave this limited area without permission, so can't even go to Jerusalem, a half an hour away because most of the time they don't get the permission. So there is no hope to get jobs, to visit family, to just shop or do other things. After living here I say to you: you are so lucky to have a lovely home and a good job.

And then there is Hope School, where I am, where they struggle to keep body and soul and finances together. Recently the school bought fuel for the central heating on credit because they could not aford it. Fortunately the dealer delivered on credit. The school is intensely cold: it is built of stone and heaters are kept low, when on. I was given an electric heater for my room and feel extremely priviledged, but I wear 4 layers (silk underwear is a blessing) and have not taken my wintercoat off yet, it is my refuge. The prinicpal and his daughter have shown great concern for me and I am in good hands. The teachers are more than dedicated and I live here with two boys. They are very helpful and a few days ago we fixed the table tennis table and have been playing, much to their delight. The net is held up by two sticks and the paddles are less than staifactory, but life goes on and no one complains.

Candy, soap, toothpaste and the rest of the toiletries can all be bought at a little supermarket across the street from the school. The owner has been to the states and carries a CA driver's license. We have become good friends and yesterday he helped me choose a box of candy for a family where I am having dinner (lunch) today. Small things like that are such a blessing, because I really don't know all the cultural do's and don't's. My experience at the hairdresser, well, the color of my hair is interesting, to say the least.

I was able to watch the inauguration here and was so excited. I had pangs of homesickness and wanted to be part of the celebration. Everyone watched it here too and is happy with Obama. They hope he can bring some change. I have been reading online some of the things he has done already and it is a breath of fresh air. I can't get anything [in print] in English here, for that you have to go to Jerusalem.

Update from Yvonne

I had a wonderful birthday, albeit very quiet, but the mother of Nicolas, baked me a choclate cake and at 4 pm we had turkish coffee, very strong and sweet and you drink it from tiny cups, the cake and a candle. Coming from a family that has so little it was touching and so loving. Nisolas gave me a lovely shawl and it was perfect. Very different from my 70th!! Nicolas is a dear, dear friend. He is the young computer teacher who I gave a laptop to so he can do the things with his students he so badly needs to do. ...he drives me into town or help me get to a shop. I can go on and on. Please give everyone my best and am anxious about that little Calof baby.

Hi all, My Mother has been having difficulty posting to the Blog so I am helping out. Sounds like all is well and she is still in Egypt. Her plans to enter Palestine are uncertain at this time and she will look at all options before entering. So her is the info she sent along. Dale

Friends,

After having been in Egypt now for two weeks and visited remote villages in the desert, I have to say that Egypt is complex and fascinating. The faces of Islam and an Arabic culture are a mixture of mystery, kindness, and an awareness of my own ignorance . We spent two nights in the desert which was VERY cold but the stars were incredible and it was an amazing experience, (but no scorpions, R.E.A.D. friends) Egypt is a mixture of poverty, history, and the bustle of a large population. Many women are veiled, some totally with gloves, but others are covered to a lesser degree. It is quite interesting to see young girls wearing long jean skirts with veils on, and all the children greet us with a friendly "How are you, what is your name", but that is as far as the conversation goes..
The cities are not my favorite places, with the exception of Aswan. Traffic is totally chaotic with cars going through red lights and driving on any side, whatever is most convenient. At times you take your life in your hands. Here in Luxor we rode our bikes, which is a common means of transportation, but a bike without brakes was quite a challenge.
The Souqs are long narrow walkways where you can buy everything imaginable and unfortunately you get many sellers trying to convince you that you need their wares. All of the noise and dust is intermingled with the prayers from the mosques. The temples are incredibly beautiful and awe inspiring and the reality that they are 3000 years old makes one feel very humble. I feel so far removed from my comfortable and safe life at home amidst the reality of what is around me.,Unfortunately I will soon have to deal with the reality of Gaza, and have not decided what to do yet. We do get BBC but only short notices and the use of Internet is quite limited. I will try to keep you updated but Communications are somewhat limited, depending on the Internet cafe.
Salaam,
Yvonne

Plans are going well and I'm already starting to eliminate things from my suitcase.
Even though I want to travel light, preparing for 6 months is a challenge. So what is wrong with
doing without? Another life lesson!

I so appreciate the support I have received from my children and grandchildren , as well as
other family members and friends. I take all of you with me on this adventure and you will be in my heart.

Love you,
yvonne

Bethlehem

Pre Trip planning. I am getting my travel things together.